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The Tronxy X1 is a budget cantilever design 3D printer by Tronxy. I purchased this as my entry into the world of 3D printing. This repository contains documentation and resources I have collected while experimenting with this printer.
I purchased my Tronxy X1 at GearBest. I was not given an option to choose shipping for this deal. It was shipped by DHL and time from order to arrival was one week including a weekend. To their credit, DHL made payment of customs fees a painless online process and sent SMS status messages about the shipment and the need to pay fees. The filament appears to be of good quality so far and I have not yet had any clogging or other issues caused by filament quality.
The new wheel worked but these appear to be of poor quality, do not spin effortlessly by hand and have slight surface imperfections in the plastic. I will search for higher quality rollers later as an upgrade option.
Models - Model files for the factory demo part, useful calibration items and upgrade parts specific to the printer. Profiles - Printer and Filament configuration profiles I have built and found to work well with my particular setup.
I added a layer of inexpensive 3M green painter's tape locally purchased and had much better results. After printing and removing several items I had adhesion issues again which were improved by wiping down the tape surface with alcohol, finger oils can make the difference between adhesion and failure. After more printing I've abandoned the tape for now and lightly sanded the Garolite with sandpaper, cleaned with alcohol and use a layer of cheap glue stick that I wash off and reapply every few prints.
I find this faster and simpler than dealing with the tape, which I have found in some instances can actually be lifted off the Garolite by a warping print. I attribute this to differences in belt tension between axes. Never assume factory calibration is correct. This can also change from one filament to the other. I did the adjustment using this guide. While trying to eliminate stringing and blobbing on prints I found that the bowden tube was not fully inserted into either coupler.
The end going into the hot end was also not cut flat, so I re-trimmed the end. Trimming and re-seating the tube noticeably improved print quality. I opted to upgrade the printer to Marlin 2.
This gave me thermal runaway protection, a serious omission from the printer. I was also able to add several features from much more expensive units such as print pausing and resume from power failure. This process requires several parts to be purchased as the stock Melzi board does not ship with a bootloader installed so it can't be flashed by USB. The way I completed the process requires:.
A computer with the Arduino IDE installed. A copy of the Marlin 2. I will not detail all steps here as there are several good guides available online to outline the process. I found this one to be the most accurate. In a nutshell you must. This was the single largest upgrade in print quality I have done.It has a 0. This is a kit you have to assemble yourself. As usual the included SD card has all the expected goodies such as an assembly manual, software and a test print file.
The structure parts consist of a mixture of laser cut acrylic parts, aluminium extrusions, a steel bracket and even a printed part. Everything comes nicely packed in a small box and the only complaint I have around the parts list is that most of the screws came in a single bag. The kit also includes the tools to put everything together and some sample filament for your first test print. The assembly manual was pretty good and I managed to assemble everything in two hours. There were no missing parts, nothing was broken and it came together fairly quickly.
Assembly consists mostly of screwing the right parts to the right places as per the manual. The extruder came mostly built which also makes it a bit easier. After putting together the structure I started connecting all the electronics.
Again the manual was very easy to follow and it was clear how the wiring needed to be done. As with most kits these days, most of the wires had connectors on with the exception of the power wiring as these screwed into screw terminals on the main controller.
The kit even included a screw driver just for that purpose. Once everything was built and connected I powered it up, did basic bed levelling and tested that the hot-end heats up. I loaded the sample filament in the printer and started the test print that comes loaded on the SD card and 20 minutes later I had a finished test print. While the first print came out good you can see that there is a wobble on those two axes.
The addition of the LCD and offline printing is nice and not something you expect to see on an inexpensive machine. I printed a few more pieces for testing including the famous Benchy. Apart from the previously mentioned wobble, the prints came out rather nice.
I use Simplify3D for my slicing and I found a nice profile for this specific printer. The wobble is obviously a problem, but because of the price, this printer has obtained quite a community who designed and shared improved parts for it. There are loads of designs on Thingiverse that you can create to improve your machine. I tried a few of the basic improved parts and it made a good difference.
I think with some more 3D printed upgrade parts you could turn this into a very decent printer.Therefore I do not recommend changing settings yourself without understanding what each setting your adjusting does. So To start with G code files can not be written in word you are better off writing then in notepad because it does not leave artifacts in the background.
Therefore any time you want to update the firmware you need to either edit the g code you have or start a new notepad document for it. I am going to do my best to explain each of the G codes in every day terms If I can think of how. Then if you want you can copy each line into a notepad document and edit and save it. Once saved to the SD card put the SD card into the control board and run that G code file as if it was a print and done. Make sure ever g code file you make has the save g code at the end.
The this example M is the code for X Y max movement speed then the is the mms. So if you wanted to slow down the max speed you could change it to or to speed it up depending on your printer. When the moving speed exceeds this speed, it takes this speed as the starting speed and begins to accelerate. Otherwise, it is in constant motion at the moving speed.
M I10 ; Lower this is your getting ringing. Set X and Y the same. In addition. M S1. M T0 ; Enable temperature error detection. M T1 ; Forbidding temperature error detection. The second extrusion head will be used as Z. For some large equipment, two Z axes will be needed. Therefore E2 can be used as Z axis.
M T1 ; enable hot bed. M T1 ; disable hot bed. M S0.The Tronxy X1 requires you to build the device itself but the build process is fairly straight forward. The resulting machine is decent although it lacks many features that have become standard on mainstream 3D printers.
Cheap 3D printers are common and come in all shapes and sizes. Some are good, and some are far from it, so I was interested to see how the Tronxy X1 would fare. The printer arrives in the smallest box I have seen for a 3D printer, and the contents were relatively light.
Opening up the box showed all the components carefully laid out inside, ready for assembly. Note that, while this price includes delivery, it is exclusive of any taxes that may be levied by HMRC or the courier companies on behalf of the vendor.
Want to buy tech from online Chinese retailers? Read this first. The first catch is that there are no visible instructions, a quick route through the boxes sections and you find a small USB Key containing the software, manual and build instructions. I've built quite a few 3D printers over the years, and as I laid out the parts, I could see that the overall design was well thought out and looked relatively simple to assemble.
It's hard to believe a 3D printer could be bought at this price, even when you have to assemble it yourself.
Only a build and test will show if the compact Tronxy X1 is worth the money as a 3D printer or it's merely a cheap way to buy some parts. From the pictures online, it's instantly apparent that the Tronxy X1 has taken a slightly different approach to the standard 3D printer design. Like the much anticipated Original Prusa Mini, Tronxy has created a printer with an X-axis arm that's only supported at one end.
This X-axis arm holds the print head and is where the majority of the 3D print action is centred. We know that Prusa's skill and expertise at building 3D printers will ensure that the Original Prusa Mini will be first-rate when it comes to build quality, even if you assemble it yourself, but what of the Tronxy X1.
The main construction of the printer itself is extruded aluminium tube, and it's solid.
Tronxy X1 3D printer review
The base and other structural parts are made from thick acrylic or metal which promises excellent rigidity and strength. The arm design, in this case, seems like a good option. It keeps things compact, and with all the braces and supports that are included once built, it did prove to be rock solid. The print head is a standard single extrusion with just the hotend and fan mounted on the X-axis. The filament is fed through the extruder which is also mounted on the X-axis but inline with the Z column, presumably to provide better support and to cut down on vibration from the steppers at the printhead.
The Hotend is very simple with a single fan cooling the heatsink around the heat break, and that's it. No fan down to the print platform to cool the filament once extruded which could cause an issue with stringing.Along with the now ubiquitous action cams, the market of the 3D printers also started to increase exponentially, tempting a lot of brands to follow this trend. Tronxy offers a lot of type of printers, both the bigger and the smaller ones.
After many other brands have already been tested by our 3D printer guru Norm, we are now testing one of the smallest models made by Tronxy and notably one of the smallest 3D printers on the market nowadays.
I like to think of it as a desktop printer. Conversely, from the most of other 3D printers, the X1 can be placed next to your PC without any particular problems. Most of the 3D printers come already partially assembled. Well, not this one! The Tronxy X1 comes fully taken apart. Thus, in the box, we find dozens of acrylic and aluminum pieces waiting to be assembled. With all the pieces needed to build the printer, you also get a screwdriver and a little wrench that are fundamental to connect all the components.
As the Fortune would have it, the SDcard was my first problem. I circumvented the problem by using another SDcard. There are building instructions on this card that, honestly, I found extremely helpful. There was also a free version of the RepetierHost software and a test figure to be printed, in. STL and. Gcode format. Truth is, the instructions are perfectly clear — but it takes a lot of time to screw everything together properly.
There are a lot of screws and little pieces that require a lot of time — and precision. When I finally finished the assemblage of the main structure, I started adding the electrical parts.
Tronxy X1 Mini Portable 3D Printer Kit
I just want to say that this chapter is composed of a lot of long cables, and all of these twist and snake to the mainboard positioned behind the screen and controls. Long story short, the montage in total commanded my 20 hours. All the components, both structural and electrical, are of good quality.
Nothing seems cheap despite the overall price of this printer. All the aluminum structure is solid as well as the screws. The four motors are perfect, and so are the other, more fragile components. The only two things I have to grumble about is that the PLA filament was of very poor quality, and it was all chopped in little pieces, thus nearly impossible to use.
In my first test print it just quit working. After several tries I found out that the heater cylinder was set a little bit off its position. Nothing serious, but for a moment I thought the worst. OK, all the components are pretty good, but all together — do they match?
Obviously not. I checked all the structure a lot of times over.This model was part of my team's Acknowledgements: Fasteners from McMaster Carr; Other standard parts like cooling fan, stepper motors, extruder assembly, timing belt pullies and extrusions from GrabCAD. Please consider posting the model.
This Service may incorporate or use background Autodesk technology components. Autodesk, the Autodesk logo, and Fusion are registered trademarks or trademarks of Autodesk, Inc. Portions copyright c Engine Yard and Andre Arko. The above copyright notice and this permission notice shall be included in all copies or substantial portions of the Software.
Portions relating to lightbox are licensed under Creative Commons Attribution 2. Lightbox was authored by Lokesh Dhakar lokeshdhakar. Tronxy X1 3D Printer. Description This is a remodeling of the Tronxy X1 3D printer, one of the cheapest 3D printers on the market. Accurate, to scale model, down to the nuts and bolts. Add Comment. Hi lam Is it possible to have your model files? I want to download the model in fusion ?
Could you please post cad files for download? I want to download the model in 3D. How do I do? Similar projects. The Container House. Custom build V12 Engine. The Container House Open-Source Robot Arm Prototype Transformable toy Car it can transform to Robot. Generative Mini Rover.
Tronxy X1 3D Printer
Brand: Tronxy 4. Price: Gun Metal. Add to Favourites Recommended Products for You. We will take no responsibility for any problems resulting from modifications. Maintain a safe distance from the printer. It is made from aluminum. Product Safety Disclaimer: We do not accept any responsibility or liability for misuse of this or any other product. All our products are extensively tested to comply with rigorous and strict QC standards.
For certain products e. Disclaimer: 1. Please read and follow the user manual carefully before you assemble or operate the 3D printer. Modification and customization of the 3D printer is strictly forbidden. Always use the correct AC voltage for your region. Use the 3D printer only in properly ventilated areas. You Will Also Like. Customer Reviews 4. See all 88 reviews Write a Review. Translate into EngLish. Great starter printer. A Small but Good 3D-Printer.
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